Who Are the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders?
The Tsaatan people are one of the smallest ethnic minorities in Mongolia, with only a few hundred individuals still living the traditional reindeer-herding life in the high Taiga of Khövsgöl Province. The word “Tsaatan” roughly translates to “those who have reindeer” in Mongolian, and it is the reindeer — not horses or camels — that define their way of life.
Unlike the horseback nomads of the steppe, the Tsaatan live in tipis called urts, similar to the tepees of North American indigenous peoples. Their shamanic traditions, oral histories, and deep relationship with the forest set them apart from all other Mongolian nomadic groups.
Their world is disappearing. Younger generations are increasingly drawn to towns and cities, and the reindeer population has declined significantly over the decades. Visiting the Tsaatan responsibly is not just an adventure — it is a way of supporting a culture that needs the world’s attention to survive.
Where Do the Tsaatan Live?
The Tsaatan live in the East and West Taiga regions of northern Mongolia, accessible from the town of Tsagaannuur in Khövsgöl Province. The Taiga is a dense, mountainous forest — there are no roads into the herder camps. Reaching the families requires travelling by horse or reindeer through forest trails that can take several hours to a full day depending on where the families have moved.
The Tsaatan move their camps seasonally, following their reindeer to fresh grazing areas. This means the exact location of a camp changes throughout the year and cannot be predicted far in advance. A local guide who has relationships with the families is essential.
How to Get There
Getting to the Tsaatan requires commitment. Here is the typical route from Ulaanbaatar:
- Day 1–2 — Drive north from Ulaanbaatar through Bulgan Province (approximately 10–12 hours by 4WD)
- Day 2–3 — Continue to Mörön, the regional capital of Khövsgöl Province, passing Lake Khövsgöl — one of the world’s largest freshwater lakes
- Day 4 — Drive from Mörön to Tsagaannuur, a 12-hour journey on rough, remote roads
- Day 5 — Ride by horse or reindeer from Tsagaannuur into the Taiga forest to reach the herder camps (3–8 hours depending on where families are located)
Public transport to Tsagaannuur is limited and unreliable. The journey is best done with a private tour operator who manages all logistics, transportation, and the local permissions required to visit.
What to Expect When You Arrive
Arriving at a Tsaatan camp is like stepping into another century. The tipis are arranged in a small clearing in the forest. Reindeer move freely around the camp, gentle enough to pet and sometimes used for short rides. Children play among them. The smell of woodsmoke drifts from the cook fires.
During your stay, you will:
- Sleep in a traditional urts — The same tipi structure the Tsaatan have used for generations, heated by a central wood stove
- Share meals with the family — Simple, nourishing food including reindeer milk tea, dried meat, and bread cooked over the fire
- Witness daily herding life — Feeding the reindeer, moving through the forest, collecting firewood, and the rhythms of a nomadic day
- Learn through conversation — A good guide will translate stories of shamanic tradition, seasonal migration, and the challenges the Tsaatan face today
- Ride reindeer — Short rides through the forest are often possible and are a highlight for many visitors
This is not a performance. You are a guest in a working home, and the experience is all the more powerful for it.
Best Time to Visit
June to August is the most popular window. The Taiga is green and accessible, days are long, and the weather is relatively mild even at altitude. Temperatures can still drop below zero at night — bring warm layers regardless of the season.
September and October offer dramatic autumn colours in the forest and fewer visitors. The weather turns cold quickly, but this period is considered by many guides to be the most beautiful time in the Taiga.
Winter visits are possible for experienced travellers and offer a completely different perspective — snow-covered forests, the reindeer in their full winter coats, and a profound stillness. Winter requires extra equipment and preparation.
Spring (April–May) is when reindeer calves are born — a special time if you can arrange access.
How Long Should You Stay?
A minimum of two nights in the Taiga is recommended. One night gives you barely enough time to settle in and absorb the experience. Two or three nights allows you to accompany the herders on their daily work, explore the surrounding forest on foot or horseback, and build a genuine connection with the family.
Most organised tours spend one to two nights with the Tsaatan as part of a longer 10–11 day journey from Ulaanbaatar.
Responsible Travel: How to Visit Without Causing Harm
The Tsaatan have had complex relationships with tourism. Poorly managed visits can disrupt camp life, create dependency on tourist income, and undermine the culture they are meant to celebrate. Here is how to visit responsibly:
- Go with a tour operator who has genuine relationships with the families — not one who simply turns up unannounced
- Ask before photographing — always, every time
- Bring appropriate gifts if advised — a good guide will advise on what is welcome; avoid sweets and alcohol
- Do not bargain aggressively for crafts or souvenirs — these items represent real labour and cultural knowledge
- Listen more than you speak — you are there to learn, not to perform
What to Pack for the Taiga
- Warm layers (temperatures drop sharply at night even in summer)
- Waterproof jacket and trousers
- Sturdy hiking boots
- Headlamp
- Insect repellent (mosquitoes are significant in summer)
- Small gifts for the family if advised by your guide
- Camera — but use it with awareness and permission
The Tsaatan reindeer herders are one of Mongolia’s greatest living treasures. A visit done well — slowly, respectfully, and with the right local partners — is the kind of experience that stays with you for the rest of your life.
Ready to experience the Taiga? Book your Mongolia Reindeer Herder Tour here →